nedelja, 18. september 2016

Top climbing crags around Sant Llorenç de Montgai


Google map location of Era Vella and crags near Sant Llorenç de Montgai in minutes driving from masia Era Vella.
Sant Llorenç De Montgai 
1. Sant Llorenç de Montgai with mix reddish rock of limestone, conglomerate and sandstone. From easy multi pitch up to 150 meters high, till overhang routes with pockets and also there are beautiful 30-60 meters high slightly overhang 7a and 7b lines. These are best routes for endurance training ever. The crag is just around the corner of the house Era Vella. In summer river Segre cools you after climbing or just swimming for rest day can be great too. 

Best season;winter, spring and autumn. June is ok. July no. Avgust is possible. 
Gradrs; 5-8c ,more than 200 routes.
The amazing view you see from Mont Roig which you can reach by car or with bike. 
Shady and overhanging sector in Sant Llorenç De Montgai. 
Boulder gym is only 2 second from your bedroom. :-)) :-)) :-)) 
Camarasa 
2. 5 minutes driving from the home you can climb in Camarasa, really nice crag with pockets and technical routes.
Best season: autumn and spring, it is also possible to climb in summer but only in the mornings until 13pm. In winter time some sectors are wet.

Grades from 5-8c, 10-30 m high. Many sectors. 300 routes.

Santa Linya 
3. Santa Linya with hardest and longest overhang in the area. 15 minutes from Era Vella you can climb on "gym" style way of climbing. There is Futbolin sector 5km from the overhang sector with easier routes. 

Best season: winter and autumn mostly but also in spring till June because sun is high and almost all day the crag is in the shade.
Grades: 6a-7b in Futbolin, 7b-9b in overhang sector, 50 routes.

Tartareu
4. 20 minutes away is a great crag Tartareu with more than 200 routes mostly 6b, 6c and 7a, slightly overhanging with good pocket holds and it is perfect to get used to overhangs and get in shape. 

Best Season: all year, in summer wall gets into the shade in afternoon.
Grades from 6a-8b max 25 meters.

Os de Balaguer
5. Within 20 minutes you can climb on east or west walls of Os de Balaguer mostly 6 grades on really good pocket routes.

Best season; spring and autumn. Shade in the morning on west face good in spring. In summer is all too hot. In winter is good on the sun, mostly south east face for winter.
Grades: 6a- 8a, with around 50 routes.

Vilanova de Meia
6. 35 minutes from home there is huge valley of Vilanova de Meia with amazingly beautiful strange horizontal cracks built into the walls which gives you good holds. Must visit and climb.

Best season: spring, autumn and winter. The wall is in all orientations except there is no north face.
Grades: 5-8a, 20 - 200 meters high.

Terradets
7. 40 minutes away is well known and wonderful valley of river Noguera Pallaresa where you can climb on most beautiful walls of all kinds. This is called Terradets. Mostly people climb in sector Les Bruixes at winter time on quite slippery rock on tufas. But still it is really good. There are many crags and many walls are waiting to be opened in the future but first you need to climb what already exists. Terradets offers not only sectors with tufas but also steep multi pitch climbing, technical climbing on vertical slabs, overhanging routes,...basically everything your heart desires is there.

Best season: depends of the wall, all year around except July. You have all sun orientations of the walls.
Grades; 5-9a, 20-500 meters, sports and multi pitch and also trad climbing. More than 500 routes or more.


8. 40 minutes from Era Vella is Ager which is also paragliding paradise for long flights and good climbing limestone on slaby technical crag with more than 100 routes mostly 6 grades. Ager is on 1200 meter altitude so there is great fresh air up there.

Best season; spring, autumn is usually windy. In the high summer is normally too hot.
Grades: 5-8c, 30-100 meters high routes. Vertical limestone.

Oliana
9. 45 minutes from Sant Llorenç is the most attractive and hardest crag in the world, Oliana. If you don't climb 9a you are still welcome to see this amazing overhang wall with the hardest routes on this Planet. You can find routes here for everyone but the best are from 8a – 9c. Prepare to get pumped. 

Best season: late spring, autumn and winter but not in December because it can be quite fogy and humid and maybe overcrowded. Summer below the 32°C is also good if there is a windy day. Shade comes after 3pm in summer so you have plenty of time to work on your projects. July is too hot. September is starting season till March, and then from April till mid June. Depend of the year too.

Grades: 6a-9c, 56 routes 20- 55 meters.

Alternative: the upper wall named Roc de Rumbau with nice 6b 250 meters equipped and semi equipped long routes, perfect escape if there is too many climbers occupying Contrafort de Rombau (Oliana).
Coll de Nargo
10. 55 minutes from Era Vella you climb in Coll de Nargo with all kind of style of routes. But 6 grades and some technical 8 are just fantastic. The wall is south faced and it is a pleasure to climb in winter time with t-shirt on the sun, especially when Oliana is in the dark fog all day. Shade in the afternoon.

Best season; winter, spring, autumn, early summer.
Grades: 5a-8b, 20-100 meters, more than 150 routes.

North west face of Figols, 250m
11. 60 minutes from home you reach Figols. There are many variation for climbing, like steep big wall, technical sharply sector with mostly 7th grade and on the other side with tufas and overhang you can find some harder staff. Really nice. Good quality rock on most of the routes. I really recommend multi pitch wall.

Best season: spring, early and late summer, autumn. 
Grades: 6a-9a, more than 200 routes, 20-250 meters long routes.
Collegats
12. 70 minutes away is another climbing paradise Collegats. With all kind of style and type of rock. South faced conglomerate and north faced limestone on the same path. It is just amazing all these rocks with curves and different shapes that attracts not just climbers but also artist like Gaudi in the past. 

Best season: spring, autumn, early summer and winter on conglomerate sectors. All sun orientations. 
Grades: 4a-8c, 200 routes, 20- 40 meters. Besides sport routes there are trad climbs with 300 meters long routes. 


There are many more crags and walls reached in less than an hour driving from Era Vella. Those top 12 climbing spots are just my suggestions by the experience. I think everybody can find best rock for themselves and enjoy whatever you like most. I don’t want that you have to come to climb all these crags, I just what to show you what inspires us to climb here. It’s up to you to discover your climbing paradise.

13. 1,5 – 2 hours from Era Vella you can go check the massive canyon with spectacular nature and wildness of Mont Rebei. Amazing river and huge walls leads you trough canyon on steep and narrow path carved into the wall. Here you can climb in adventurous big wall or if too hot in the summer Psicobloc is just by the path. Other option is to climb on more than 100 mountains of Montserrat.
Congost de mont rebei
Montserrat